It has been a summer of counting. Length of school holidays: 91 days (45 gone, 46 left). Days in Sicily: 58. Steps from the front door to the sea: 1,120. Number of times a day the lady opposite sweeps her front step: three. Number of days water has not arrived in our part of Gela: seven. Litres dispensed by the emergency water tankers per family, per day: 80. Litres of water needed for a shower: 20; to flush a toilet: six; to run a washing machine: 40. Ice-creams eaten: two a day. Recipe books bought: three. Steps to make this insalata alla palermitana: seven. Times I’ve made it this week: three.
Step one: boil a couple of large, waxy potatoes in well-salted water until tender, then dice into large pieces. When possible, I boil the potatoes whole and in their skins; they retain their texture and flavour better, and the skin splits and curls, making it easy to peel away once they are cool enough to handle. Step two: boil 500g of trimmed green beans in the potato water.
Step three: peel two red or yellow peppers. To do this, roast the peppers in an oven or, as I like to, over the gas hob, balancing them directly and precariously on top, or using a fork impaled in the flesh to turn the pepper in the flame until the skin is black and blistered, the flesh popping and crackling like a Bonfire Night sparkler, the sweet, scorching smell enticing.
Once the peppers are black, put them in a bowl and cover with clingfilm for 10 minutes (this loosens the skins). Clean the peppers over a plate, pulling away the skin, scraping away the seeds, then ripping the soft flesh into strips and dressing with a little salt, olive oil and just a dash of vinegar, then leave to sit.
Step four: peel a red or white onion, slice into half moons, then cover with a mix of half vinegar/half water for 10 minutes, which will calm angry edges and pickle it slightly. Step five: roughly chop four ripe tomatoes in a dish, discarding any hard and white bits, and sprinkle with a little salt. Step six: the most deliciously smelly step. Wash a big handful of basil leaves, pat them dry, slap the leaves between your hands then rip into pieces.
The reward for these six steps of careful prep – the peeling, scorching, ripping, calming, slapping and seasoning at every stage – is that, in the words of the great Simon Hopkinson: “You have brought out the best in all the ingredients.” It may sound trite, but it’s true that ingredients respond to nurture, that attention repaid with flavour and scent, especially at this time of year, when the sun and warmth of our kitchens seem to spur on the essential character of each vegetable.
Step seven: bring everything together: toss the warm potato, greens beans, peppers (and their juices), tomatoes (and their juices), the drained onion and ripped basil together in a big bowl. Hands are best. Now taste to see how much more salt, black pepper, olive oil and vinegar it requires, add it, then toss again. Resting time: 20 minutes.
In their book Ricette Di Una Famiglia Siciliana, Alessandra Pagnotta and Anna Maria Bonaccorso describe this insalata as corposa (full-bodied), which is appropriate, as it is part of their menu for the Corpus Domini festival, when, 60 days after Easter, faithful Palermitani build a small altar, U Tusiellu, which is then blessed. Benediction before lunch. There is a memorable description of the competition between families to build the tusiello più sfarzoso, the most opulent altar, as well as one for rigorously dicing vegetables. This is another reminder that attention to detail is almost always the key to good food – and altars.
Corposa is such a good description of the insalata’s ingredients. It is a full-flavoured dish, and one that feels complete and generous piled high in the middle of the table. Alessandra suggests serving it with grilled meat. Tuna or hard-boiled eggs are a good alternative, in which case you might like to add an eighth step – and a handful of capers. Minutes for soaking in water for salted capers: 10.
Insalata alla Palermitana (Palermo salad)
Adapted from a recipe in Ricette Di Una Famiglia Siciliana, by Alessandra Pagnotta and Anna Maria Bonaccorso – Edizioni Leima.
Prep 5 min
Cook 40 min
Serves 4 – 6
2 large potatoes
500g green beans
Salt
2 red or yellow peppers
1 red or sweet white onion, peeled
Olive oil
Red-wine vinegar
4 ripe tomatoes
1 big handful basil leaves, ripped
Boil the potatoes whole and unpeeled in plenty of well-salted water until tender. Lift from the water and leave until cool enough to handle, then peel. Using the potato water, boil the beans until tender.
Meanwhile, scorch the peppers, either in the oven or over a gas hob, until their skins are black and blistered. Put in a bowl and cover with clingfilm for 10 minutes. Working over a bowl to catch the juices, pull away the blackened pepper skin and scrape away the seeds. Rip into strips, put in a bowl, sprinkle with salt, pour over a little oil and a dash of vinegar, and leave to sit for 10 minutes.
Slice the onion and put in a mixture of half vinegar/half water for 10 minutes; set aside.
Chop the potatoes and tomatoes into rough chunks and put in a bowl along with the peppers, drained onion, green beans and ripped basil. Add salt, olive oil and vinegar to taste, then toss well. Leave to sit for at least 10 minutes, before tossing again and serving.
